Sauna: The Heart of Estonian Life
If you want to understand Estonians, you need to understand sauna. It's not just a wellness activity — it's a cultural institution, a social space, and for many, a spiritual practice.
The Estonian word for sauna is... saun (pronounced like "sown").
A Brief History
Saunas have been part of Estonian life for over 1,000 years. Historically, the saun was:
- Birth place — Babies were often born in the sauna (the cleanest, warmest space)
- Healing space — Traditional medicine practiced here
- Spiritual site — Connected to nature and ancestors
- Social equalizer — Everyone is equal in the sauna
Today, saunas remain central to Estonian culture. Most homes have one, and it's standard in apartment buildings, hotels, and public swimming pools.
Types of Estonian Saunas
Smoke Sauna (Suitsusaun)
The traditional Estonian sauna, recognized by UNESCO as cultural heritage.
How it works:
- No chimney — smoke fills the room while heating
- Stones heated for 4-6 hours
- Smoke vented before bathing
- Softer, more aromatic heat than modern saunas
- Temperature: 60-80°C
Where to try: Mooska Farm Sauna (UNESCO heritage), Wabadus Spa
Finnish-Style Sauna (Soome saun)
The most common type in modern Estonia.
Characteristics:
- Electric or wood-fired heater
- Temperature: 70-100°C
- Dry heat with steam from water on stones (löyly)
- Found in most homes, gyms, and spas
Steam Bath (Aurusaun)
Less traditional in Estonia but growing in popularity.
- Lower temperature, higher humidity
- Often in spas and wellness centers
Infrared Sauna
Modern addition, not traditional but available in wellness centers.
Sauna Etiquette: The Rules
Nakedness Is Normal
In traditional Estonian sauna culture, you go in naked. This is the norm for:
- Private home saunas
- Gender-separated public saunas
- Traditional sauna experiences
Exceptions:
- Mixed-gender public saunas (swimwear)
- Hotel/spa saunas (check house rules)
- If you're uncomfortable, a towel wrap is accepted
The Basic Protocol
- Shower first — Always clean before entering
- Enter quietly — Sauna is a calm space
- Sit on a towel — For hygiene
- Lower bench first — Move up as you acclimatize
- Pour water on stones — Ask before doing so (creates steam)
- Exit when ready — No minimum time required
- Cool down — Cold shower, pool, or outdoor air
- Repeat — 2-3 rounds is typical
- Hydrate — Water or light beer afterward
Viht/Vihad (Birch Branches)
Whisking yourself or others with birch branches is a traditional practice:
- What: Bundle of leafy birch branches
- When: In summer, with fresh leaves
- How: Gentle beating/whisking motion
- Why: Improves circulation, fragrant, exfoliating
- Offer: "Kas sa tahad vihta?" (Would you like the branches?)
What NOT to Do
- ❌ Loud talking or shouting
- ❌ Using your phone
- ❌ Staring at others
- ❌ Pouring water on stones without asking
- ❌ Rushing others
- ❌ Being drunk in the sauna
- ❌ Exercising or stretching
- ❌ Entering with strong perfume
The Social Side
Sauna as Social Space
Some of Estonia's most important conversations happen in the sauna:
- Business deals — Finns and Estonians famously negotiate in saunas
- Family bonding — Saturday sauna is family tradition
- Friendships — Sauna invitations are meaningful
- Therapy — Personal problems often discussed
Being Invited
If an Estonian invites you to their sauna, this is significant:
- You've reached a level of trust
- Accept if at all possible
- Be prepared to be vulnerable (literally and figuratively)
- Don't bring your phone
- Bring beer or wine as a gift
The Cooling Down Ritual
After sauna rounds, Estonians cool down. This contrast is essential:
Options (Coldest to Mildest)
- Ice hole swimming (avanto) — Through a hole cut in frozen lake
- Rolling in snow — Classic winter option
- Lake/sea dip — Natural water
- Cold shower/pool — Most accessible
- Outdoor air — Standing outside, even in winter
- Resting room — Gradual cooling
Health benefits: The hot-cold contrast is believed to:
- Boost immune system
- Improve circulation
- Enhance mental clarity
- Release endorphins
Sauna Health & Safety
Benefits
- Cardiovascular health improvement
- Muscle relaxation
- Stress reduction
- Improved sleep
- Skin cleansing
- Respiratory benefits (steam)
Who Should Be Careful
- Pregnant women (consult doctor)
- People with heart conditions
- Those with low/high blood pressure
- Anyone who's been drinking heavily
- People with open wounds
Safety Tips
- Stay hydrated
- Listen to your body
- Don't stay in too long (start with 5-10 minutes)
- Cool down gradually
- Don't drink alcohol before or during
- Exit if you feel dizzy or unwell
Where to Experience Estonian Sauna
Public Saunas in Tallinn
Kalma Saun (Kalma 5)
- Traditional Estonian sauna experience
- Separate sections for men and women
- Authentic, local atmosphere
- Affordable
Kadriorg SPA (Kadrioru tee 2)
- Modern wellness center
- Various sauna types
- Swimming pool included
Wabadus (Vabaõhumuuseumi tee 12)
- Smoke sauna experience
- Traditional setting
- Advance booking required
Hotel Spas
Most 4-5 star hotels have excellent sauna facilities:
- Telegraaf, Swissôtel, Hilton
- Usually Finnish-style
- Open to non-guests (fee applies)
Outside Tallinn
Mooska Farm Sauna (South Estonia)
- UNESCO heritage smoke sauna
- Traditional sauna master experience
- Worth the trip
Lake saunas (various)
- Many lakeside cottages offer sauna + lake swimming
- Authentic Estonian experience
Building Your Sauna Practice
For Beginners
Week 1-2:
- Start with 5-10 minutes
- Lower bench only
- Lukewarm cooling
- 1-2 rounds
Week 3-4:
- Increase to 10-15 minutes
- Try upper bench
- Cold shower cooling
- 2-3 rounds
Month 2+:
- Find your comfortable routine
- Experiment with cold water
- Try birch branches
- Accept social invitations
Building Your Home Sauna
Many expats eventually install saunas:
- Apartment models exist (infrared, mini-Finnish)
- Property buyers often prioritize sauna
- Estonian builders are experts
Sauna Vocabulary
| Estonian | English | |----------|---------| | Saun | Sauna | | Suitsusaun | Smoke sauna | | Keris | Sauna stove | | Löyly | Steam (from water on stones) | | Viht/vihad | Birch branches | | Leil | Sauna round | | Leiliruam | Sauna room | | Lavats | Sauna bench | | Ämbor | Bucket | | Kapp | Ladle | | Sauna tegija | Sauna master |
Sauna Phrases
| Estonian | English | |----------|---------| | Kas sa tuled sauna? | Are you coming to sauna? | | Head leili! | Enjoy your sauna! (literally: good steam) | | Kas võib vett visata? | May I throw water? | | Kas sa tahad vihta? | Would you like to be whisked? | | See on hea leil | This is good steam | | Ma lähen jahutama | I'm going to cool down |
Final Thoughts
Sauna is one of the fastest ways to connect with Estonian culture and people. It strips away pretense (quite literally) and creates a space for genuine connection.
Start slow, respect the traditions, and embrace the experience. Many expats report that their first sauna invitation was when they truly felt welcomed into Estonian life.
As Estonians say: Head leili! 🔥